Spain, for real...

This has been the most Spanish of all my weekends. Last night I went to la corrida de toros...the bullfight. Here are pictures. I'm still trying to process it. It's horrible grusome and violent and awful, but at the same time it's beautiful and graceful and I don't even know. There were three main matadors and each got to kill two bulls. It's about a 15 minute process and begins with los banderilleros (men with pink capes) essentially taunting the bull. Next los picadores enter the ring. They are two men mounted on blindfolded horses draped in woven armor. They carry long spears and stab the bull in the back while the bull rams into the unsuspecting horse. The picadores exit and the banderilleros come back and take turn piercing the bull with two smaller baton-like spears which stick in the bull's back, in theory for the rest of the ordeal. The bull ends up with six of these dangling out of his shoulders. Then the ring empties but for the matador and the crowd is silenced. He waves his red cape and faces the bull for a while before stabbing him with his sword. The banderilleros return and taunt the bull a bit more before the bull eventually collapses and is dragged out of the ring by decorated mules. If it was a particularly good fight, the crow will wave white hankies in the air indicating they wish to have the bull's ear cut off and given to the matador. He then parades around the ring brandishing his prize. It's interesting to me that this country's symbol of masculinity is a man in sparkly beaded tights, pink socks, and ballet flats. It was quite an experience and at times I wanted to throw up, but I stuck it out because it is such a typical part of the culture. When the torero makes a good turn of his cape the entire crowd murmurs "Ole" but it's quiet and breathy and almost eerie, not full of passion and spirit. People of all ages were there and it truly is a family affair.

As I was leaving the plaza, my phone rang and it was Mayda, a friend of a friend of my Dad. She lives in Sevilla and invited me to eat lunch, Spain's main meal, with her family. I was with them from 1 until 7 today. We had a typical Spanish almuerzo at the tennis club and then returned to their gorgeous apartment for coffee. Mayda and her husband have two daughters, Mayda (14) and Teresa(5) they are both adorable. We were also joined by their cousin Felipe who is a 27 year old tax lawyer. I only slept for 3 1/2 hours last night so 6 hours of attempting to speak Spanish was a little difficult today. Also, we're out of gas again so I haven't showered in a few days and I felt absolutely disgusting. I'm going to have to brave a freezing cold one tonight. The whole family was incredibly kind to me though and encouraged me to call them if I ever need anything. I hope they call again and that I can be better prepared to be an interesting conversationalist, ie, know more Spanish and not be completely sleep deprived.

Oh, I also went to mass today with my friend Martin who is Colombian. It was so short and the church was quite empty. That's understandable though because we went at 10 and Spaniards are not morning people...which makes sense because a good night out for them doesn't end before 7 am. I didn't understand much because the priest mumbled and the church echoed, but I'm excited to go again and try to comprehend more. I've written out the prayers in Spanish and hopefully will become better at them soon.

Hope you all are great. Miss you loads! XOXO